Professor Bainbridge...on law, politics, religion, culture & food

Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses (Chablis) 2005

Where is the famous flint, mineral, and/or iodine markers of a grand cru Chablis? This a decent wine, but not at all characteristic of the region. Indeed, in a blind tasting, I likely would have guessed it originated in New Zealand. White peaches, vanilla, and a dash of oak. Grade: B

Robert Mondavi: RIP

James Laube:

Robert Mondavi, a visionary winemaker and brilliant marketer who helped lead California wine into international prominence, died at 9 a.m. today at home in Yountville, Calif. He was 94.

Outspoken, energetic and charismatic, Mondavi was one of the most influential and admired winemakers in California history. He was the driving force behind his namesake winery in Napa Valley, which he established in 1966 and which for years was the most famous winery in California, until it was sold in 2004.

“Robert Mondavi left an indelible legacy on the California wine industry,” said Marvin R. Shanken, editor and publisher of Wine Spectator. “He touted California wines as world class--as good as the best of Europe--and tirelessly traveled the world spreading that message, making believers out of millions of wine lovers.”

In a career that spanned eight decades, Mondavi often led by example, setting lofty goals for his winery and inspiring California winemakers to make wines that would compete with the best in the world. His name, influence and passion for wine and life spread well beyond Napa and California. Winemakers around the world credited Mondavi with encouraging them to set higher standards and make better wines.

My reviews of Mondavi wines and other commentary:

Sanford Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict Vineyard (Santa Rita Hills) 2001

A couple of years ago, I wrote that this wine was:

...a very fine Pinot, but its firm acidity and potent - albeit well-integrated - tannic backbone mandate some additional cellar time for it to fully develop.

With two additional years of bottle age, the tannins have mellowed and the wine is in prime drinking condition.

Cherries, blueberries, mushrooms and truffles, tea, and a whiff of grape stems.

Grade: A-

Spottswoode Family Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) 2004

A brilliant success. The huge bouquet sends perfume cascading around the room. The flavors are intense and deep, but when paired with a rich sauce (buffalo sirloin steak au poivre) it has enough acidity to be refreshing. The tannins are present in considerable force, but they’re sufficiently ripe and well-integrated to allow the wine to be enjoyed now.

Chocolate, espresso, cassis, truffle, and a dash of sweet dark berries.

I had only this bottle in my cellar.  I’m going to go find some more, however. Although it’s great to drink to now, it has all the ingredients for extended aging. I’d love to see what it’s like in, say, 2024.

Grade: A

Who wears stiletto heeled peep toe pumps to a vineyard?

Somebody who hangs out with David Beckham. Not too forget Posh herself.

Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Napa Valley) 1990

At age 18, inspection of the bottle offered worrisome signs, as there was evidence of minor seepage under the foil. Plus, the cork was deeply stained. As it turned out, however, the wine was truly exceptional.

It’s thrown an immense amount of sediment, requiring careful decanting and leaving the wine a medium intensity ruby color with just a hint of brick at the rim.

The bouquet is intense, offering classic fully mature Cabernet markers. Cedar, dried black fruits, tobacco, espresso, and nutmeg.

The palate is fruitier than the bouquet, although there’s plenty of cedar and leather too. Black currants, prunes, and plums.

The question is whether to drink my last bottle at age 20 or 25. I’m leaning towards the latter. I think it’s got enough stuffing left to keep going.

Grade: A

Ridge Geyserville (Sonoma County) 2001

When last noted in 5/2006, I opined that this wine was “Drinkable now, but unusually firm tannins still need some time to resolve.”

With two more years of bottle age, the 2001 Geyserville now stands as a brilliant example of what a great winemaker can achieve with Zinfandel (74% with 18% Carignane and 8% Petite Sirah) sourced from a great vineyard in an excellent vintage.

As with the best mature Zins, the 01 Geyserville has shaken of the brambles and blackberry off youth. Indeed, on first taste, my wife mistook it for a classed growth Bordeaux. I can see why.  The lovely bouquet suggests black fruits, mocha java, soy, and toffee. On the palate, the wine lingers through an extended finish.

I’ve got six bottles left in my cellar. I plan to space most of them out 1 per year or so for the next five years, leaving the last to 2021 just to see what happens to this remarkable wine. Most Zins don’t evolve, they just sort of keep going. But this one has already evolved, so I want to give it a fair chance to keep developing.

Grade: A

Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley) 2006

A splendid white wine. Honeydew melon and freshly mown grass. Crisp but not aggressive. Grade: B+